Makalu Expedition

Duration : 49 Nights / 50 Days

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Trip Facts

Group Size 2-8 Persons

Trip Grade Challenging

Accommodation Hotel-Camping-Tea House

Max Height 8485 Metres

Start From Kathmanu

End At Kathamndu

Transportation Flight-Car- jeep

Duration 50 Days

Meals included Breakfast-Lunch-Dinner Days

Best season: Spring

Trip Highlights

The Makalu Expedition is a difficult and hard climbing expedition that is situated in Nepal's Mahalangur Himalayas close to the Tibetan border.
The mountain, which rises 8,485 meters (27,838 feet) above sea level, is renowned for its technical difficulty and severe weather.
A French team under the direction of Jean Franco performed the first successful ascent in 1955.
There are several ways to reach the top of Mount Makalu, including the traditional route via the Barun Valley, the West Pillar, and the North Ridge.
The Nepalese government must grant climbers permission to ascend Mount Makalu, and they must join a guided expedition.
The best and safest time to climb this treacherous peak is still in the spring.

Makalu Expedition is a challenging and demanding mountaineering endeavor located in Nepal's Mahalangur Himalayas near the border with Tibet. The mountain stands at an elevation of 8,485 meters (27,838 feet) above sea level and is known for its technical difficulty and harsh weather conditions. The first successful ascent was made by a French team led by Jean Franco in 1955. There are multiple routes to the summit of Mount Makalu, including the standard route via the Barun Valley, the West Pillar, and the North Ridge. Permits for climbing Mount Makalu require permits from the Nepalese government, and climbers must be part of a guided expedition. Challenges include altitude sickness, extreme cold, and the risk of avalanches. Mount Makalu is part of the Makalu Barun National Park and Conservation Area, which is home to a diverse range of wildlife and vegetation. Climbers must obtain permits from the Nepalese government and adhere to strict regulations to protect the environment. The Makalu Expedition is a challenging climb of the eight thousand peaks in Nepal, involving steep pitches and ridges. Located 20 kilometers from Mount Everest, it is the fifth-highest peak on Earth and the fourth-tallest mountain in Nepal. The West Route is the most dangerous route. The best time to climb is in the spring and autumn.

Mt. Makalu I Expedition (8463 m) is a top-tier expedition above 8000m in the Mahalangur Himalayas, located near Nepal's border with China. At an altitude of 8,463m, it stands as the fifth-highest mountain in the world. The region is known for its rich natural surroundings and magnificent mountains, including Mt. Makalu II, Chamlang, Baruntse, Mera Peak, Tu Tse, Saladin, Pethangtse, and Honku. The mountain is protected by Makalu Barun National Park and Conservation Area, covering 2330 sq km. The mountain's structure is a perfect pyramid with four sharp ridges, making it challenging for climbers. The ascent of the summit pyramid requires technical rock or ice climbing. Mount Adventure Holidays offers a package for Makalu I Expedition 8463m, including logistics, transportation, accommodation, and a professional mountain guide, at a reasonable price.

Trip Itinerary

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5-6
Breakfast
Hotel
Car
1349 m

A Makalu expedition is a challenging and high-altitude mountaineering adventure in the Himalayas. Makalu is the fifth-highest mountain in the world, standing at 8,485 meters (27,838 feet) above sea level. The itinerary for a Makalu expedition typically involves several weeks of acclimatization, base camp setup, and summit attempts. Here's a general outline of what a Makalu expedition itinerary might look like:

Arrive in Kathmandu, Nepal.
Complete expedition preparations, including obtaining permits, gear checks, and team meetings.

4-5
Breakfast-Lunch-Dinner
Hotel
Flight-Jeep-Car
1980 m

Fly from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar, a town in eastern Nepal.
Drive from Tumlingtar to Num, which is the starting point for the trek to Makalu Base Camp.

6-7
Breakfast-Lunch-Dinner
Tea House -Lodge
Trekking
5000 m

Trek through the beautiful Arun Valley, passing through villages like Seduwa and Tashi Gaon.
Acclimatize and gradually gain altitude during the trek.
Reach Makalu Base Camp, which is at an elevation of around 5,000 meters (16,400 feet).

5-6
Breakfast-Lunch-Dinner
Camping-Lodge
Trekking-Climbing
6100 m

Spend several weeks at Makalu Base Camp acclimatizing to the high altitude.
Establish higher camps on the mountain, typically at Camp I (6,100 meters/20,013 feet) and Camp II (6,800 meters/22,309 feet).
Make multiple rotations between base camp and higher camps to adapt to the altitude.
Plan summit attempts based on weather conditions and team readiness.

6-7
Breakfast-Lunch-Dinner
Camping
Trkking-Climbing
8485 m

Depending on weather windows and the team's condition, make summit attempts.
Push for the summit from the highest camp, often Camp II or Camp III.
The climb from Camp III to the summit can be technically challenging and requires careful planning.
Once successful, celebrate the summit and take in the breathtaking views.

6-7
Breakfast-Lunch-Dinner
Hotel-Lodge
Trekking
5000 m

Descend from the summit back to base camp and gradually make your way down the trekking route.
Rest and recover at lower altitudes.
Return to Kathmandu.

6-7
Breakfast
Hotel
Car-Flight
1344 m

Debrief with the expedition team and celebrate the successful expedition.
Depart from Kathmandu and head home.

Please note that this itinerary can vary depending on the expedition organizer, team experience, and weather conditions. Mountaineering in high-altitude environments like Makalu is extremely challenging and requires careful planning, experience, and a strong support team, including Sherpas and other experienced climbers.

Cost Includes

Arrival and departure transfer services to Domestic flights as per itinerary.
Assistance at the International Airport by Mount Adventure Holidays while arriving and departing in Kathmandu.
4 Nights of 5-star category hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on a B/B basis.
Experienced and government-licensed high-altitude trekking and climbing guide during the trekking and climbing period.
Schedule Flight Tickets for the Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu sector for all climbing members, Sherpa guides, liaison officers, and kitchen staff.
All trekking and mountaineering equipment like; kitchen tents, stores tents, dining tents, toilet tents, tables, chairs, and cooking utensils for advanced Base Camp and Camp Two.
Common climbing equipment (necessary fixed and main rope, ice bars, ice screws, snow bar, etc)
Services of cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp and cook at Camp 2
3 meals a day (Breakfasts, Lunch, and Dinners with tea/ coffee) in available tea house/hotel/lodge during the trekking
3 fresh meals a day (Breakfasts, Lunch, and Dinners) will be served at base camp, and camp two.
All food and fuel for Base Camp and higher camps during the expedition for both members and crews.
Per person 60kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak to climbing Mt. Everest.
Daily Weather Report Services from Seattle-based
Trekking Permit (Everest National Park entry fee)
TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System).
Expedition Royalty and climbing permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Everest (8848M).
Nepalese Government Royalty and Fees;
One Experienced, Trained, Government Licensed, Everest Summiteers Climbing/expedition Guide (Sherpa) per client.
All wages, equipment, medical, and accidental Insurance for all involved staff in trekking and expedition.
Medical consultation services at the base camp with the HRA clinic at the base camp.
Equipment allowances and wages for Climbing Sherpas, cooks, and kitchen boys.
Equipment allowances and wages for Government Liaison Officer.
First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staff.
Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 3 per minute call.
Appropriate food for high altitude and all climbing crew at base camp and above as required.
Required fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period.
The heater will be provided at the base camp for heating the dining room.
Emergency Oxygen, mask, and regulator provided on requirement of guest with appropriate charge
Each expedition member will have an individual tent available in the ABC.
Solar panel for light and battery charger.
All tents for camps 1, 2, 3, and 4 for members and staff.
Icefall charges by Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee.

Cost Excludes

Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except for the farewell dinner)
Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, and nutria bars during the trekking.
Items of a personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips.
Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations, etc.
Extra transportation is then displayed in the itinerary program.
Any additional staff other than specified.
Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests, and Hospitalization expenses.
Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
Wallie-talkies & Filming permit (if the special camera or walkie-talkies).
Personal climbing gear;
Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phones And Internet expenses
Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Camera/Video Fees, or Trekking Gears
Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods.
Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa Guides as per Mountaineering Association rules. Minimum US$ 1000.00 per climbing Sherpa guide.
Tips and gifts for base camp and high-altitude trekking and climbing staff are mandatory.
Airfare of international flights.
Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance on arrival in Kathmandu)
Any extra services products offers or activities that are not mentioned in the itinerary.
Any other item not included in the cost includes the section

Trip Map

Trip Video

Trip Equipments

Clothing

☐ Down suit
☐ Down Jacket
☐ Primaloft or light-down jacket
☐ Primaloft trousers
☐ weatherproof jacket
☐ weatherproof salopettes
☐ Softshell jacket
☐ Softshell pant
☐ The top first layer (x2)
☐ The top heavier first layer (x2)
☐ Thermal underwear long john thick & Thin (x3)
☐ Trekking trousers (x2)
☐ Warm hat (x2)
☐ Buff (x2 including one with fleece)
☐ Liner gloves / Finger gloves
☐ Light gloves (x2)
☐ Expedition gloves
☐ Prim aloft mitts
☐ Down mitts
☐ Thermal Balaclava
☐ Face mask
☐ Sun hat
☐ Sunglasses (x2)
Climbing gear
☐ Backpack 45-50Litre
☐ Harness
☐ Descender
☐ Ascender (Jumar)
☐ Climbing helmet
☐ Ice Axe
☐ Steel crampons
☐ Trekking poles
☐ Head Lamp
☐ Lithium spare batteries
☐ Carabiners (3 x HMS / pear shape)
☐ Carabiners (3 snap links)
☐ Slings 120 cm (2)
☐ 3 meters of 8 mm climbing cord
☐ Prussic loops (2)
☐ Duct tape
☐ Lighters or Match boxes (3)

Personal Equipment
☐ Sunscreen
☐ Lip block (4)
☐ Water bottles (2x 1L) with an insulated cover
☐ Vacuum Flask
☐ Water purification tablet
☐ Toilet roll (1 or 2)
☐ Toiletry bag with mirror
☐ Personal first aid kit Footwear
☐ Socks (3 pairs of thin socks, 3 pairs of thick socks)
☐ Mountaineering boots
☐ Gaiters
☐ Trekking shoes
☐ Base Camp shoes
☐ Down shoes

Camping equipment
☐ Sleeping Bag (2)
☐ Sleeping bag liner (optional)
☐ Inflatable sleeping mattress
☐ Pee bottle
☐ Multi-tool knife

FAQ's Before Travel

A Makalu Expedition refers to the organized effort to climb and reach the summit of Mount Makalu. It involves a team of climbers, support staff, and logistics to tackle the challenges of high-altitude mountaineering.

The best time for a Makalu Expedition is during the pre-monsoon (spring) season, typically from April to May, when the weather is relatively stable, and the risk of avalanches and extreme cold is lower.

Makalu is considered one of the more challenging 8,000-meter peaks to climb due to its technical difficulties, steep slopes, and unpredictable weather conditions. It requires advanced mountaineering skills and experience in high-altitude climbing.

Yes, you will need a climbing permit issued by the Nepalese government to attempt Makalu. You may also need other permits depending on your route and the areas you pass through.

The duration of a Makalu Expedition can vary depending on the route, weather conditions, and the acclimatization schedule. Generally, it takes about 6-8 weeks to complete the expedition.

The cost of a Makalu Expedition can vary widely based on factors such as the guiding company, the level of support, and the services provided. It can range from tens of thousands to over a hundred thousand US dollars per person.

The success rate varies from year to year and depends on many factors, including weather, the skill of the climbers, and the overall team's health and preparedness. On average, the success rate for reaching the summit of Makalu is around 50-60%.

Climbing Makalu involves numerous risks, including altitude sickness, avalanches, crevasse falls, extreme cold, and high winds. It's essential for climbers to be well-prepared and experienced.

While it's possible to attempt Makalu independently, it's highly recommended to join a guided expedition. Experienced guides and support staff can greatly enhance safety and increase your chances of success.

You'll need specialized mountaineering gear, including crampons, ice axes, ropes, and high-altitude clothing. The exact equipment list may vary depending on your guiding company and route.

Yes, proper physical conditioning and high-altitude training are essential for a Makalu Expedition. Climbers should be in excellent physical shape and have experience with high-altitude climbs.

Yes, climbers should adhere to Leave No Trace principles and follow local regulations to minimize the environmental impact of their expedition. It's important to respect the fragile ecosystems in the region.